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	<title>Comments on: littlerat</title>
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		<title>By: Jon</title>
		<link>http://www.lawrence.org.uk/blog/2009/12/littlerat/comment-page-1/#comment-10</link>
		<dc:creator>Jon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:29:01 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Well, I&#039;ve had chance to play with it. I have to say I&#039;m impressed with how easy it is.
As I&#039;m in the process of making a jewelry box for swmbo so I&#039;ve been practicing the joints for that. At couple of things I&#039;ve found which I&#039;m not a fan of.
1) the blue cutter block. I&#039;m not entirely sure whether this is me doing something wrong or not (will need to re-read the manual to find out) but I found that it stopped me making cuts deeper than 10mm. Hmmm, I can&#039;t imagine that is correct. I actually ended up routing out the center of the block by mistake so will order another one of these.
2) Errors in marking/aligning to pencil marks.
There is an inherent problem in the way you align to a pencil mark. The problem I forsea are:
a) you need to measure and mark by hand.
b) you are aligning to a pencil line - which you have put in place by hand.
two is two too many - and they are avoidable problems.
The way I&#039;m intending to remove these problems is 1) fit a moveable ruler to the left hand side of the machine. It needs to be moveable to allow for differing sizes of router bit - unless I just set the &#039;zero&#039; reading to that of the center line. 2) make a marking cursor. This is actually quite simple. It&#039;s just going to be a bit of 5mm plexi glass fitted where the current cursor goes. It&#039;ll have a score line on it to line up the the ruler and purhaps one of those tiny magnifying lenses - that would make lining things up a lot easier.
Paralax (sp ?) error. One thing that can easily creap in is paralax error when you&#039;re alinging the cursor to the pencil lines (or ruler when it&#039;s sorted). Making half of the scribe line on the back of the cursor and half on the front would sort this. If you&#039;re looking slightly from one side then you&#039;d see 2 lines but if looking from bang on the front you&#039;d only see one continuous line - sorted. Since the score lines can be very thin it should make alignment a heck of a lot less error prone.
I&#039;m sure even if perfectly aligned there&#039;ll be the odd fetling of the joints.

My first joints certainly aren&#039;t perfect - there are the odd gaps to sort out. But hey, that just makes them look more like hand made joints :).

One thing to add is that the T11 works perfectly in this littlerat :).
A 8mm reducing sleeve and 1/4&quot; collet are on their way (hopefully) so I&#039;ll be able to use whatever size bits I want in the router.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, I&#8217;ve had chance to play with it. I have to say I&#8217;m impressed with how easy it is.<br />
As I&#8217;m in the process of making a jewelry box for swmbo so I&#8217;ve been practicing the joints for that. At couple of things I&#8217;ve found which I&#8217;m not a fan of.<br />
1) the blue cutter block. I&#8217;m not entirely sure whether this is me doing something wrong or not (will need to re-read the manual to find out) but I found that it stopped me making cuts deeper than 10mm. Hmmm, I can&#8217;t imagine that is correct. I actually ended up routing out the center of the block by mistake so will order another one of these.<br />
2) Errors in marking/aligning to pencil marks.<br />
There is an inherent problem in the way you align to a pencil mark. The problem I forsea are:<br />
a) you need to measure and mark by hand.<br />
b) you are aligning to a pencil line &#8211; which you have put in place by hand.<br />
two is two too many &#8211; and they are avoidable problems.<br />
The way I&#8217;m intending to remove these problems is 1) fit a moveable ruler to the left hand side of the machine. It needs to be moveable to allow for differing sizes of router bit &#8211; unless I just set the &#8216;zero&#8217; reading to that of the center line. 2) make a marking cursor. This is actually quite simple. It&#8217;s just going to be a bit of 5mm plexi glass fitted where the current cursor goes. It&#8217;ll have a score line on it to line up the the ruler and purhaps one of those tiny magnifying lenses &#8211; that would make lining things up a lot easier.<br />
Paralax (sp ?) error. One thing that can easily creap in is paralax error when you&#8217;re alinging the cursor to the pencil lines (or ruler when it&#8217;s sorted). Making half of the scribe line on the back of the cursor and half on the front would sort this. If you&#8217;re looking slightly from one side then you&#8217;d see 2 lines but if looking from bang on the front you&#8217;d only see one continuous line &#8211; sorted. Since the score lines can be very thin it should make alignment a heck of a lot less error prone.<br />
I&#8217;m sure even if perfectly aligned there&#8217;ll be the odd fetling of the joints.</p>
<p>My first joints certainly aren&#8217;t perfect &#8211; there are the odd gaps to sort out. But hey, that just makes them look more like hand made joints <img src='http://www.lawrence.org.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> .</p>
<p>One thing to add is that the T11 works perfectly in this littlerat <img src='http://www.lawrence.org.uk/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> .<br />
A 8mm reducing sleeve and 1/4&#8243; collet are on their way (hopefully) so I&#8217;ll be able to use whatever size bits I want in the router.</p>
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